The shopping in Naples can't compare to that in Milan, Venice, Florence, and Rome. Nevertheless, there are some good buys for those willing to seek them out. The finest shopping area lies around Piazza dei Martiri and along such streets as Via dei Mille, Via Calabritto, and Via Chiaia. There's more commercial shopping between Piazza Trieste e Trento and Piazza Dante along Via Toledo/Via Roma.

Coral is much sought after by collectors. Much of the coral is now sent to Naples from Thailand, but it's still shaped into amazing jewelry at one of the workrooms at Torre del Greco, on the outskirts of Naples, off the Naples-Pompeii highway. Cameos are also made here. Many of the factories here cater strictly to those endless bus tours and sell shoddy merchandise. The most reliable firm is the century-old Basilio Liverino, 61 via Montedoro (tel. 081-8811225), which uses the finest Asiatic and Mediterranean coral to make the best cameos in the south of Italy. Its cameos are made from carnelian, a Madagascan shell, and sardonyx, a transparent variety of quartz. Technically, this store will sell only to jewelers, but if you want to make a serious purchase, as opposed to a cheap souvenir, you can call for an appointment; at that time, you can also visit a museum displaying the world's best collection of cameos and corals. The tour buses pull up at Giovanni Apa, 1 Via e. De Nicola (tel. 081-8811155), but Bruno Gioia will take you beyond the junk and show you a stunning collection of authentic coral pieces and antique cameos.

We never visit Naples without waiting in line to get into a tiny little store, Marinella, Riviera di Chiaia 287 (tel. 081-7644214), which enjoys worldwide fame. It's worth the wait. Inside you'll find a great collection of accessories for men, along with shirts and sweaters that you'll keep forever. Wherever you look, you encounter a feast of indigo or red ties or else scarves printed in England just for Marinella. Royalty, politicians, and international movie stars are also likely to be waiting in line with you.

Another great menswear store is Fusaro, Via Chiaia 32 (tel. 081-419365), which is full of everything a smartly dressed man will need for his wardrobe, including suits, ties, shirts, and sweaters. Most suits are tailor-made (some tailoring can even be done the same day!).

Modeled on Milan's galleria, the Galleria Umberto I, Via San Carlo, was built as part of Naples's urban renewal scheme following an 1884 cholera epidemic. The massive glass- and iron-frame barrel vaults of its four wings and central dome soar some 60m (187 ft.) above the inlaid marble flooring (it had to be largely rebuilt after World War II bomb damage). It makes for a pleasant shopping stroll. You'll find a wide range of stores selling typical area products, from fashion to ceramics.